Spring is so early in NH this year. Already the crocuses have gone by, as have some of the daffodils. The red tulips are blooming and the lawn is filled with white and deep purple violets. Today, a week after our spectacular Easter, the weather was again perfect. It was time to investigate and evaluate the herb and vegetable gardens.

Lemon balm, lemon balm is everywhere! It's growing up through the patio bricks and emerging rampant in the beds. The catnip too is out of bounds. And I was worried last fall that the catnip seemed a bit scarce - hardly! I can already tell that tomorrow my back won't be thanking me for jumping into weeding with such enthusiasm.

The sage and oregano are looking good, I uncovered the tarragon, and of course, I'm already harvesting chives. What would I find in the vegetable garden? Ah, rhubarb - it'll be a while before it's ready - and yes, sorrel. You don't find sorrel (or sour grass, as it's also appropriately known) in the markets around here. Or if you do, it's sold as an herb at exorbitant prices. Before the weather gets too warm, it's still lovely and tender; and when I see it, I think of my favorite use for it - Potage Germiny.

When I learned to make this soup, we used spinach tarted up with lemon juice because sorrel wasn't available, and that makes very good soup. But making it with sorrel is the real deal. It turns a somewhat unappetizing grey color cooked, but the flavor is superb. Then again, what isn't when the other ingredients are butter, homemade chicken broth, heavy cream and egg yolks?

Potage Germiny

1 lb. sorrel, rinsed
4 cups chicken broth, preferably homemade
6 egg yolks
1 1/2 cups heavy cream, preferably not ultrapasteurized
Salt & pepper

If the sorrel is young and tender, remove the tough portion of the stems. If it's older, stem the leaves as you would spinach. In a non-reactive 4 quart pot, add the sorrel to 2 cups of the broth and bring to a boil. Stir until the leaves turn grey, then remove from the heat and puree in a blender.

Return the pan to the heat and add the puree and the remaining two cups of broth. Bring to a slow simmer.

Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks with the heavy cream. Be sure the yolks are completely blended and smooth. Temper the yolk mixture with several ladles of the simmering soup; then pour it all back into the pot.

Stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, heat the soup until it begins to thicken. Use a thermometer to be on the safe side and avoid curdling the egg yolks, which will happen if they're allowed to heat beyond 175 degrees. As soon as the soup has thickened, remove the pot from the heat.

Some folks like to strain the soup at this point, but I don't bother. Season with salt and pepper, and serve it up. If you like a little crunch for contrast to the smoothness of the potage, some small croutons would be a nice addition.